Day 5: Three wet way-gookins

Course: Nochi-Maeul-- Sachi-jae

Distance walked: 18.7 km

Rob

Awakened to another wet and misty morning. The wooden floorboards of the jeongja made for a restless night as the body adapted to the hard surface. We ate a good breakfast and rolled out into the wet. I quickly remembered that the daegan does not grant favours when you want them. A brutally steep uphill quickly brings all lingering doubts flooding to the surface and the mental battle begins almost immediately. Damp pine forest and overgrown azaleas slapping thigh and and face meant we moved quickly. On days like this silence usually dominates as you want to get the km's done, get to the next stop and get dry. We planned to get food after 15km's, but the small village was fairly deserted and the only shop was closed. But this is Korea, and the beauty of this trail is that civilisation is never that far away. Another 3km on there just happened to be a major highway with a hyugeso or rest area, which has all the amenties that a wet waygookin could ask for. I.e. a toilet sink with warm water, full range of gwaja and a restaurant serving steaming kimchi jiggaes. Did I mention wi-fi and heaters? Anyway, it was a joyous occasion and as evening fell we crossed the road looking for a jeongja we had scoped from the road. Dark by now we couldn't locate it, but instead stumbled across what appeared to be a deserted minbak meant for road workers or truckers. It was actually genius as it was dry, had four walls and a comfortable floor and we lay down to what could well be the best free accommodation in Korea. This is why I love the Daegan - you never know what it's going to throw your way, I secretly believe that if you put in the effort the BD will reward!

 

Getting ready for a pipe in a haunted opium den. Best free accommodation on the trail to date.